Mushrooms of all sorts, both cultivated and wild, seem to be popping up — well, like fungi in the woods.
Whether you're eagerly awaiting the sunny spring thaw and longer days that portent a flush of morels or anticipating a forager's haul at a farmers market, your fungi choices are deep and wide. And the explosion of cultivated wild species appearing in produce departments only spices up the party.
Most mushroom lovers agree that the best way around a fresh mushroom is a quick rinse, some good oil or butter and a hot pan. But what if you've scored an abundance of them, more than you can possibly eat? Well, now it's time to make a plan.
My favorite preservation methods are drying, sautéing to freeze, and pickling in a spiced brine. The method you choose depends on the mushroom: Some species, like spring morels, king boletes (often called porcini or cépes), black trumpets or those giant puffballs you might find in your yard late in the summer, all dry well. Other varieties, like oyster mushrooms, chanterelles, chicken of the woods, lion's mane and hen of the woods (often called maitake) are better chopped up and sautéed for the freezer. Meaty lobster mushrooms, black trumpets and king boletes can go either way, drying well but are also good freezer partners for future pans of lasagna or a pot of creamy risotto. Beautiful golden chanterelles and hen of the woods make glorious pickles.
Drying: Easy and reliable
The easiest and most reliable way to dry mushrooms is in a good dehydrator. Mine was languishing in storage until I rescued it a few years ago. It's large, and makes quick work of a good-sized batch of mushrooms. The key to quality dried mushrooms is thin, uniform slices and evenly distributing them on the dehydrator trays. Run the dehydrator at a consistent 140 degrees until the slices are cracker-crisp.
Of course, you don't have to use a dehydrator. People have air-dried mushrooms for ages, laying thin slices on screens outside or stringing them up with needle and thread — it just takes longer. Or you can use your oven. Arrange the very thinly sliced mushrooms on a cooling rack and set them in the oven using the lowest setting possible; if you can, leave the oven door open a little.
Whatever your method, the most important thing is to completely dry the mushrooms until they're brittle, otherwise they'll mold when stored. (I store dried mushrooms in glass jars in a dark cupboard.)
Once you have your stash of dried mushrooms, they can be transformed into umami-filled finishing salts and savory coating mixtures. Create your own blends by buzzing mushrooms up in a spice grinder or clean coffee grinder with dried herbs or dried garlic. Or coarsely crush dried mushrooms, then spoon them into a tabletop grinder with salt crystals, peppercorns and broken dried chiles for a custom seasoning you won't find in stores.
Freezing: Ready for action
Take a page from French cuisine if you want to freeze your cache of mushrooms. A classic sauté — or duxelles mixture — concentrates the meaty flavor of the mushrooms. Finely chopping the mushrooms and cooking them until they are dry ensures that they'll freeze well.
Start off with a large hot skillet with room to spread the mushrooms out. Add a good butter or olive oil, if you'd like, and cook the mushrooms until they are very tender and all the moisture is evaporated.
Mushroom expert Michael Karns likes to start the mushrooms in a dry skillet, cooking until they start to release their juices. Then he adds butter, lightly seasons them with salt and pepper and adds a splash of wine. Once they're done and cooled, he vacuum-seals them in small batches. Because Karns forages throughout the spring and well into autumn, his freezer pantry is stocked with mushrooms that range from delicate to boldly flavored. This allows him to blend mushrooms in recipes, using a mix of varieties as well as a mix of rehydrated dried mushrooms, frozen and fresh, creating layers of flavor and texture.
Pickling: A charcuterie must
If you crave the savory-sweet-tart acidity of pickles, you'll love pickling mushrooms. The ancient preservation method alters the taste and texture of mushrooms in a zesty, addictive way.
I like to make quick refrigerated pickles in small batches, but you can easily heat process jars to add to your pantry for snacks or impromptu entertaining. Whichever mushrooms you choose to pickle, they should be cooked beforehand — simmer them in the brine or roast them in the oven. Keep them whole if they're small or in the case of oyster or hen of the woods, you can tear them into bite-size pieces. Choosing the kind of vinegar and seasonings for a pickling brine is personal preference, but I tend to use white wine vinegar or milder rice vinegar; both give a tangy bite without overwhelming the mushrooms. Experiment with your favorite spices, too — different combinations will meld with the savory mushrooms in unique ways.
But no matter which method you choose to preserve fresh mushrooms, the time you invest is well worth it — and brings mushroom season full circle.
Mushroom musts
When it comes to preserving mushrooms, knowledge is power. Here are some tips to keep in mind.
Rehydration station
To plump up dehydrated mushrooms, cover them with boiling water and let them soak for about 20 minutes. Strain the flavorful soaking liquid through a coffee filter or a cheesecloth-lined funnel and save it for your recipe or use it to simmer back into the mushrooms in a skillet before using them.
Savoriness on demand
There are many ways to use your preserved bounty:
• Chop up rehydrated mushrooms and stir into softened butter, along with a sprinkle of dried mushroom powder and some herbs. Use on grilled steaks or spread on warm, crusty bread.
• Thaw out a container of frozen duxelles to stir into pasta sauces, soups or add to garlicky braised greens with a squeeze of lemon and sprinkle of red pepper flakes.
• For a grilling-season dry rub, finely grind dried mushrooms and mix with a handful of coarsely ground espresso beans, a spoonful of dried orange peel and a generous dash of cracked peppercorns and flaky salt.
Read all about it
Among the field guides that offer a good primer before foraging in the woods:
• "Mushrooms Demystified," by David Aurora (Ten Speed Press, 1986)
• "100 Edible Mushrooms," by Michael Kuo (University of Michigan, 2007)
• "Mushrooms of the Midwest," by Michael Kuo and Andrew Methven (University of Illinois, 2014)
• "Untamed Mushrooms: From Field to Table," by Michael Karns, Lisa Golden Schroeder and Dennis Becker (Minnesota Historical Society Press, 2018)
Crispy Fish Tacos with Pan-Roasted Mushroom-Vegetable Slaw
Serves 4.
Tender fish strips are encrusted with a dried mushroom-herb coating that is also terrific with chicken or pork cutlets. The fish is baked in a hot oven while you slowly roast fresh mushrooms, corn and a veggie slaw in a heavy skillet until golden brown. For a luscious sauce, mix a little prepared chimichurri (I like Trader Joe's) with sour cream and a squeeze of fresh lime. From Lisa Golden Schroeder.
For the crumb-coated fish:
• 3 tbsp. dried rosemary leaves
• 1/2 c. dried mushrooms
• 2 c. panko breadcrumbs
• Smoked or plain coarse salt, to taste
• Freshly ground pepper, to taste
• 2 eggs
• 12 oz. firm white fish fillets, cut into strips (cod, catfish or fresh lake fish)
• 3 tbsp. olive oil, divided
For the vegetable slaw:
• 4 oz. sliced fresh mushrooms
• 2 c. mixed vegetable slaw
• 1/2 c. whole kernel corn
• Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
For the tacos:
• Sliced green onions, for garnish
• Thinly sliced radishes, for garnish
• Torn fresh cilantro, for garnish
• Warm corn tortillas
• Pico de gallo, guacamole and hot sauce, as desired
Directions
To make the crumb coating, grind the rosemary and dried mushrooms in batches in a spice mill or clean coffee grinder until powdered. Mix with the panko, some salt and a generous grind of pepper. Place about half of the coating into a shallow dish; spoon the rest into a jar for the pantry.
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Line a large baking sheet with parchment. Lightly beat eggs in a small bowl. Dip fish pieces into the egg, then the crumb mixture, coating well. Place on baking sheet; drizzle with 2 tablespoons oil. Bake fish for 10 to 15 minutes or until golden brown and crisp.
Meanwhile, heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms; cook and stir for 5 minutes. Add slaw and corn; cook 5 minutes longer or until mushrooms and vegetables are tender and browned. Season with salt and pepper.
Fill the tortillas with the fish and mushroom-vegetable mixture. Sprinkle with onions, radishes and cilantro, along with other desired condiments.
Pickled Summer Mushrooms
Makes 2 pints.
These tangy, slightly sweet mushrooms are great to serve with sandwiches or on an appetizer board with olives, cured meats, cheeses and crackers. Mushroom expert Michael Karns likes to use tiny pickled chanterelles in cocktails, in place of an olive. From Lisa Golden Schroeder.
For the mushrooms:
• 1 lb. fresh wild mushrooms (morels, oyster, chanterelles or hen of the woods), torn or cut into bite-size pieces
• 8 large cloves garlic, sliced lengthwise
• 2 tbsp. olive oil, divided
• 2 tsp. coarse salt, divided
For the pickling brine:
• 1/2 c. white wine vinegar or rice vinegar
• 1 tbsp. brown sugar
• 1 tbsp. finely chopped Italian parsley
• 2 tsp. grated lemon peel
• 1 tsp. whole coriander seed
• 1/2 tsp. fennel seed
• 1/2 tsp. whole cloves or allspice
• 1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper
Directions
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Spread mushrooms and garlic out on baking sheet; drizzle with 1 tablespoon oil and season with 1 teaspoon salt. Roast for 20 minutes or until mushrooms and garlic are tender.
Meanwhile, pour vinegar into a medium bowl. Stir in brown sugar, parsley, lemon peel, coriander, fennel, cloves and red pepper. Stir in warm mushrooms and garlic; season with remaining 1 teaspoon salt and drizzle with remaining oil.
Spoon into jars; store in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
Aromatic Mushroom-Onion Jam
Makes about 4 cups.
I like to put this delicious condiment up in half-pint jars for the freezer. I pull it out to thaw in the fridge and serve it with grilled meats or poultry. Or spoon it onto crackers with a soft cheese for entertaining. From Lisa Golden Schroeder.
• 2 c. mixed dried mushrooms
• 2 tbsp. butter
• 3 large onions, thinly sliced
• 1 large shallot, sliced
• Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• 3 tbsp. brown sugar
• 2 tbsp. red wine vinegar
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
• 1/4 c. sliced fresh garlic chives, optional
Directions
Pour 2 cups warm tap water over the mushrooms in a medium bowl. Let them soak 20 to 30 minutes or until they're plumped and softened. Scoop them out with a slotted spoon and squeeze any excess water back into the soaking liquid. Coarsely chop the mushrooms and filter the liquid through a coffee filter or double-folded cheesecloth. Reserve both the mushrooms and liquid.
Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and shallot; season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook, stirring frequently, for about 20 minutes or until the mixture starts to caramelize.
Stir in the mushrooms. Cook and stir for 5 to 10 minutes or until the vegetables are very tender and browned. Add the mushroom soaking liquid, sugar, vinegar and thyme; cook for about 10 minutes or until the liquid cooks down by half. Stir in the chives.
Spoon into jars or freezer containers. Refrigerate for up to a week or freeze for up to 6 months.
Lisa Golden Schroeder is a Minnesota writer, cookbook author and food stylist. She's the co-author of "Untamed Mushrooms: From Field to Table." Find her at foodesigns.com.
