Like a horn of plenty, Wisconsin's Bayfield Peninsula thrusts northeastward into Lake Superior. Wandering the south shore of this inland sea by car is like discovering hidden gems around every bend.
These gems include a string of small towns that entice you to park the car to browse, rub shoulders with the locals at a main street café or just to daydream under the spell of Lake Superior. Perhaps the most stunning surprise is the cluster of 22 islands called the Apostles, scattered like emeralds off the tip of the peninsula.
To reach the region, drive north on Interstate 35 for about 150 miles to Duluth. Head east across the Hwy. 2 bridge to Superior. If you're not in a rush, cross into Wisconsin at Hudson and turn north onto Hwy. 35 up to Superior.
The heart of this journey is Hwy. 13, which traces the lake's south shore around the perimeter of the Bayfield Peninsula. From the Hwy. 2 turnoff east of Superior, you'll drive about 110 miles on Hwy. 13 until it meets Hwy. 2 again just west of Ashland. To make it a loop, turn west on Hwy. 2 for 65 miles back to Superior.
Though you can enjoy this jaunt in a day, you may not want to. Our family found that starting the trip with a stop at Ashland's Northern Great Lakes Visitor Center was an informative way to get acquainted with Lake Superior and our impending road trip along the Wisconsin shore.
Our kids, never in a hurry, wanted to linger at one of Ashland's sandy beaches on a summer evening while the sun set over Chequamegon Bay. Earlier in the day, we photographed some of Ashland's distinctive historical murals downtown. If you're there in April, make sure to try a smelt fry. These little fish run only after the ice is off the lake and only when nature calls. You might get lucky and watch fishermen trying their hand at this nighttime sport of seine and net fishing along the shore.
Once you're able to tear yourself away from Ashland, turn north on Hwy. 13 to drive up to Washburn and Bayfield. As in Ashland, these two lakeshore towns boast handsome brownstone buildings, crafted from native stone. Washburn is a great place to inquire about chartered fishing trips on the lake.
Bayfield is perhaps best viewed by boat. It is the gateway to the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore and a Mecca for big water sailing. Drive your car onto the ferry in Bayfield for the three-mile crossing to Madeline Island. As you exit the ferry in La Pointe, you can navigate the scenic 14-mile long island on a well-marked network of roads.
Back on Hwy. 13, drive north to the Red Cliff reservation. Summer events include a traditional pow wow on July 4th weekend and an Inland Sea Kayak Symposium during the third week in June.
The south shore route gets quieter beyond Red Cliff. We were smitten with the lakeshore villages of Cornucopia, Herbster and Port Wing. Here you can kick off your shoes to play on a beach or gaze at the lake for no reason at all.
In Cornucopia, we perused the aisles in Ehlers General Store and ate at the Village Inn. Herbster boasts the Log Gymnasium and a log post office. Port Wing is still an active commercial fishing village.
Wherever you steer on this road trip, the south shore of Lake Superior is bound to soothe. You may be able to shake the sand from your sandals, but not the shore from your soul.
