Summer Lovin' coal-fired pie at Love Pizza
A few happy coincidences led to Golden Valley's year-old Love Pizza. First, future business partners Marc Benjamin Ratner and Sam Taylor met when they were groomsmen in a friend's wedding some 20 years ago. Then, the new friends realized they had the same dream of opening a pizzeria. And, uncannily, it turned out they both loved the exact same combo (pepperoni and Castelvetrano olive).
They also shared a love for two distinct pizza styles: New England coal-fired and south Boston bar pies. After going to "pizza school" in Chicago and touring more than 100 pizzerias around the country, they launched their dream pie shop with both of their favorite styles on the menu. The 16-inch coal-fired pies go for that blistery char on the edges. The smaller bar-style pies resemble the square-cut Minnesota-style pizzas, but with more of a chew and a crunchy, cheesy edge.
Love Pizza, which makes almost everything from scratch, was takeout-only until recently. Now, there are plush blue booths inside and a patio sheltered from Hwy. 55 traffic by a grove of trees. The menu lists a string of signature pies, a few salads and a family recipe for meatballs. Pints of Milkjam ice cream are the only dessert.
I ordered the special, the Summer Lovin' ($29), which is inspired by Minnesota farmers markets, Ratner said.
"We wanted to create a pizza that was all-at-once special and familiar," he said. It's topped with "buttery tomato Rosa sauce," fresh mozzarella, ricotta, heirloom tomato piperade and loads of fennel sausage crumbles, plus a sprinkle of grana padano and allium oil. "The bright burst of fresh and juicy summer flavors from the slow-cooked tomatoes is an incredible combination" with the savory sausage and creamy cheeses, he said.
That topping combo is only available on the coal-fired crust. But I wanted to try a bar pie, too (build-your-own starts at $9.50). What did I order? Pepperoni and Castelvetrano olive. Another happy coincidence. (Sharyn Jackson)
509 Winnetka Av. N., Golden Valley, 612-808-8891, lovepizzamn.com
Filipino adobo-sauced wings at Melt Pizza Co.
Stillwater was built for aimless summer days, wandering from storefront to restaurant with zero agenda, allowing the charm of the city to wash over you. Stepping into a dark bar, I didn't expect to find a vibrant patio out pack, flanked by brightly painted murals. And I didn't expect to find some of my favorite Filipino flavors, either. But that's exactly what happened. The sheltered alleyway is a gorgeous setting to check out this restaurant from Anthony Gilbert, which started in 2021 as a ghost kitchen and pop-up before landing its permanent home.
Gilbert has built a buzzy reputation on Melt's Detroit-style pizzas, but I was thrilled to try the adobo wings ($17), one of a handful of recipes that pay homage to his Filipino grandmother. Rather than the usual braising, these wings are deep-fried so the skin doesn't lose its crisp in the salty dark soy and vinegary bath of adobo, the national dish of the Philippines. Served with just a bit of Fresno pepper for a spicy kick, they're exactly the kind of fun surprise an aimless river town day can yield. (Joy Summers)
112 N. Main St., Stillwater, 651-342-0246, meltpizzacompany.com
Biscuits and gravy at Scarlet Kitchen & Bar
If you're planning a visit to Red Wing, be sure to save room on the itinerary for breakfast. Specifically, Scarlet Kitchen & Bar, located in Red Wing's historic St. James Hotel. With river views, a gorgeous patio (which would have been our seating preference had it not been 50 degrees) and mimosa flights, it's certainly a nice way to start the morning.
Depending on the day, there's an array of breakfast and brunch/lunch options, including this spicy breakfast bowl of biscuits and gravy ($15). A bed of breakfast potatoes is topped with scrambled eggs, the fluffiest buttery jalapeño-cheddar biscuits and sausage gravy that's enlivened by anaheim peppers, red pepper, onion and pepperoncini. (Don't worry, it's just Minnesota spicy.) A generous sprinkle of green onions ties all the flavors together, and the dish provides plenty of fuel for a day of hiking, shopping or meandering.
However, the charm of the St. James Hotel is no secret. If you're planning a stop, it's best to make reservations — ideally for the patio. (Nicole Hvidsten)
406 Main St., Red Wing, 651-388-2846, st-james-hotel.com
Pastrami Umami burger at My Burger
We'll have what they're having.
When a team of employees from Minneapolis-based My Burger took a whirlwind research and bonding trip to New York City in April, My Burger CEO John Abdo saved the best bite for last.
"The last thing that we ate before we got in the cab to go to the airport was the pastrami sandwich from Katz's," Abdo said, referring to the famed delicatessen on the Lower East Side — the one that, um, moves Meg Ryan in the iconic scene from "When Harry Met Sally."
"It's my favorite spot in New York. And it was the one thing that everybody agreed was just a top-of-the-heap sandwich," Abdo said. "We were all just sitting there eating our sandwiches, and were just like, 'Wow. Yeah. I get it.' "
It just so happened the team was trying to think of an upcoming Burger of the Month, and a Katz's-inspired burger was the clear choice. The quarter-pound patty comes topped with Swiss cheese, slices of griddled pastrami and house made creamy coleslaw. This hefty handheld ($12.50, with fries) is part burger, part Reuben and all loving homage to one of the all-time great delis. (S.J.)
Available the rest of June at eight metro area locations, https://www.myburgerusa.com/
Pakora from Krishna's Delight
The fun of all the local farmers markets is loading up on the freshest bounty of the season. My problem is that I always show up hungry, which can lead to a crisper drawer filled with languishing vegetables. But a good, hot snack can temper things. On Sundays at Kingfield Farmers Market, there are a couple of food-ready stands selling snacks to keep the hangry shopping at bay. On this trip, the aromas from Krishna's Delight were irresistible.
Started by three self-described "food yogis," the fare is meant to be healthy — well, as healthy as a heap of crispy fried goodies can be. I ordered the pakora ($7; a half order is pictured). A mix of vegetables is shredded and formed into a fritter with the help of graham flour.
Most importantly, it's delicious. A toasty flavor with notes of coriander, ginger and a spicy and vibrant green cilantro chutney, they disappeared in minutes and were delightfully easy to eat while shopping for more produce — which I swear I'll actually use. (J.S.)
Find them at area farmers markets; details at krishnasdelight.com
