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THE LOGISTICS

I made five batches of each of these cakes. With the yellow-cake batter, I filled two (10-inch) pans and baked the rest as cupcakes. With the chocolate batter, I filled two (6-inch) pans and two (8-inch) pans and baked the rest as cupcakes.

For the frosting, I made five batches of the buttercream and had plenty. The fruit glaze recipes are generous, even for this many cakes, so if you are baking a single cake, consider cutting in half.

EMMA CAREW GROVUM

YELLOW CAKE

Serves 12 (or makes 24 cupcakes).

Note: To measure the flour, spoon it into the measuring cup and level it off with a straight edge. From Real Simple magazine.

• 1 c. (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus more for pans

• 21/2 c. flour, plus more for pans

• 11/2 tsp. baking powder

• 1/4 tsp. baking soda

• 1/2 tsp. kosher salt

• 11/2 c. sugar

• 2 tsp. vanilla extract

• 3 eggs, at room temperature

• 1 c. whole milk

Directions

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter the pan(s) (see sizes below), line the bottoms with parchment, butter again, and dust with flour, tapping out the excess. (For cupcakes, there is no need for parchment or rebuttering.)

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt; set aside. Using an electric mixer, beat 1 cup butter and sugar on medium-high until fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Beat in the vanilla, then the eggs one at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary.

Reduce mixer speed to low. Add the flour mixture in three additions and the milk in two additions, beginning and ending with the flour mixture. Mix just until combined (do not overmix).

Transfer the batter to the prepared pan(s) and bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean (see baking times, below). Cool the cake(s) in the pan(s) for 15 minutes, then turn out onto rack to cool completely. (If brushing with Orange Syrup, see directions below.)

Baking times: For two (8-inch) rounds: 25 to 30 minutes. For two (9-inch) rounds: 22 to 25 minutes. For one (9-by-13-inch) rectangle: 25 to 30 minutes. For 24 cupcakes: 15 to 20 minutes.

CHOCOLATE CAKE

Serves 12 or makes 24 cupcakes.

Note: This is a time to break out the really good cocoa powder. From "The Barefoot Contessa," by Ina Garten, who recommends extra-large eggs in her recipes, though large will work fine.

• Butter, for greasing the pans

• 13/4 c. flour, plus more for pans

• 2 c. sugar

• 3/4 c. unsweetened cocoa powder

• 2 tsp. baking soda

• 1 tsp. baking powder

• 1 tsp. kosher salt

• 1 c. buttermilk, shaken

• 1/2 c. vegetable oil

• 2 eggs, at room temperature

• 1 tsp. vanilla extract

• 1 c. freshly brewed hot coffee

Directions

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter two (8-inch) round cake pans. Line with parchment paper, then butter and flour the pans.

Sift the flour, sugar, cocoa powder, baking soda, baking powder and salt into the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment; mix on low speed until combined.

In another bowl, combine the buttermilk, oil, eggs and vanilla. With the mixer on low speed, slowly add the wet ingredients to the dry. With mixer still on low, add the coffee and stir just to combine, scraping the bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula.

Pour the batter into the prepared pans and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until a cake tester comes out clean. Cool in the pans for 30 minutes, then turn them out onto a cooling rack and cool completely. (If brushing with Raspberry Glaze, see directions at right.)

Place one layer, flat side up, on a flat plate or cake pedestal. With a knife or offset spatula, spread the top with frosting. Place the second layer on top, rounded side up, and spread the frosting evenly on the top and sides of the cake.

ORANGE SYRUP

Makes about 2 cups.

Note: Spread this on the layers of yellow cake.

• 10 to 12 oranges

• 3/4 c. sugar

Directions

Use a fine grater to remove only the top layer of zest from all of the oranges. Cover and set aside. You'll use this to decorate one of your cakes later.

Cut the oranges in half and squeeze as much juice out as possible. (You could also substitute 11/2 to 2 cups regular orange juice.)

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, heat orange juice and slowly stir in sugar one quarter of a cup at a time.

Continue heating and stirring occasionally for 30 or more minutes, until the syrup has thickened. Cool completely before using.

While the cakes are still hot, prick each one with a fork (do not go all the way through the cake) and brush each one with the orange syrup.

Reserve any leftover syrup and drizzle slowly into a small portion of buttercream. Mix on low until fully incorporated and use to fill between cake layers.

RASPBERRY GLAZE

Makes about 2 cups.

Note: Spread this on the layers of chocolate cake.

• 2 (10- or 12-oz.) bags frozen raspberries

• 1 c. sugar

Directions

In a medium saucepan over low-medium heat, heat raspberries and sugar, stirring frequently to keep from burning. Cook for 30 to 40 minutes or until slightly thick. Cool completely. The glaze will be slightly thinner than jam.

Whle chocolate cakes are still hot, brush with the glaze and allow to cool completely before applying frosting.

Mix leftover glaze with a small portion of buttercream and use to fill between cake layers.

BUTTERCREAM ICING

Makes about 2 cups.

Note: From Real Simple magazine.

• 2 c. (4 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

• 1 lb. powdered sugar (about 33/4 c.), sifted

• 1 tsp. vanilla extract

• Pinch kosher salt

Directions

Using an electric mixer, beat the butter on high until light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Reduce mixer speed to low. Gradually add the sugar, then the vanilla and salt, and beat until smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary.