Green cabbage comes into the market with the crisp chill of fall. The heads, alluring and forbidding, are like this season itself: So pretty, and yet so much at once.
The size and density of a bowling ball, a good cabbage can weigh 4 pounds and will yield about 20 cups of coleslaw. Yet, like our cooler weather, cabbage will be here for a while. The good news is that it keeps beautifully in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks. Cut into quarters, wrapped in plastic and stored in the crisper, they'll be ready to shred into salad, toss into a stir-fry or simmer into soup; you'll have four or five different dishes, no two alike. The mustardy, slightly sweet notes of cabbage pair nicely with garlic, chile, ginger and mustard as well as spicy sausage and smoked meats.
Cabbage is a brassica, just like Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cauliflower and kale. And whatever you decide to do with one, you can pretty much do with all of them. As the season progresses, these vegetables will sweeten in the field a bit. Look for them at the market when our lawns and gardens are frost-kissed.
The best way to cook cabbage when we're hungry for a quick warming meal? I like it seared over high heat in a shimmer of oil. The edges caramelize and sweeten as they become golden brown, while the rest of the wedge turns mellow and tender. At this point, you might top it off with bits of bacon and a few shreds of Cheddar cheese, or douse it with a vibrant chile-ginger spiked vinaigrette. Either way, serve seared cabbage on a bed of cooked whole grain — barley is great — and you have a simple, hearty fall meal.
Pan-Seared Cabbage with Chile-Ginger Vinaigrette
Serves 4 to 6.
Note: This makes a vibrant side dish to roast chicken or pork, or serve it over brown rice or a whole grain such as barley for a light yet satisfying fall meal. Store any extra vinaigrette in a covered jar in the refrigerator. From Beth Dooley.
• 1⁄4 c. rice wine vinegar
• 1 tbsp. honey
• 2 tbsp. minced shallot
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1 small red jalapeño chile, seeded and finely diced
• 1 tsp. grated fresh ginger
• 2 tbsp. sesame or vegetable oil
• 4 to 6-inch wedges of green cabbage, cut 2 inches thick (about 1 1/2 to 2 lb.)
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Directions
Put the vinegar, honey, shallot, garlic, pepper and ginger into a small jar with a lid and shake vigorously.
Film a medium skillet with the oil and set over high heat. Add the cabbage wedges and sear the first side until it becomes a toasty golden brown, about 3 to 6 minutes. Turn and sear the other side, about 3 to 6 minutes. Remove and drizzle with some of the vinaigrette and serve the rest on the side.
Beth Dooley is the author of "The Perennial Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.
