Many of my summer memories are intertwined with strawberries.
I recall June mornings finding wild berries tucked under the daisies along a dusty path on a family vacation in Vermont. Grade school's strawberry festivals, with soggy bowls of berries and ice cream in the hot, hot parking lot. My grandmother's crumbly, salty biscuits, left from an earlier dinner, piled high with whipped cream and fruit just picked on the way to her home on the Jersey Shore.
And now, strawberry season is here at last.
The quintessential taste of summer, exactly when strawberries appear is less predictable than a summer rain. But one thing is certain: Our locally grown berries are the very best. Tiny, delicate and intensely tart-sweet, this dark ruby fruit is decidedly different from the big red orbs flown in from California. This year's crop is even tastier than ever, given our long spell of blazing sun and plenty of heat. While the dry, hot growing conditions may not be great for farmers and pickers, these factors do influence the way the fruit tastes. Less moisture in the fields yields berries with concentrated flavors and firmer textures, perfect for dousing with cream or tossing into a crisp green salad.
As far as we know, the first wild strawberries were harvested for medicines prescribed in ancient Roman literature. The whole plant was brewed to treat depressive illnesses. The French brought strawberries into their gardens and kitchens in the late 1300s. From there, they flourished throughout Europe and made their way to our region as seeds in the pockets of German settlers.
While wild strawberries are perennials, returning year after year, most farmers plant a new crop early in the spring. June strawberry varieties produce fruit for a short three weeks. Day-neutral varieties — which refers to a plant's light sensitivity — will flower and fruit all summer long. Thanks to the University of Minnesota's robust seed breeding program, we'll see more of these berries in our farmers markets and co-ops in the sunny days to come.
Local berries are grown for flavor, not to travel or spend weeks in storage. It's best to devour them as quickly as you can (right out of the field or in the box on the way home from the farmers market is perfectly acceptable). To store, transfer strawberries to a flat plate or baking sheet lined with parchment or wax paper and put them in the refrigerator. Do not remove the caps or rinse them until you're ready to use them; the cap protects them from moisture and damage.
And do not toss out those tops! They are packed with sweet berry flavor. Use them to infuse vinegar, kombucha or vodka. Simply pack the tops into a glass jar with a lid and add enough liquid to cover. Screw on the top and allow the jar to sit a day or two, strain the liquid, discard the tops and enjoy. You might also blend those tops into smoothies (as you would spinach or kale) for a superfood boost.
While recipes for strawberry desserts abound, there's also a savory side to this pretty red fruit. It brightens chicken salad and adds color and a sweet snap to any crisp green salad. Make a simple basting sauce by combining the berries with chiles and vinegar to brush on grilled pork. Drizzle strawberries with balsamic vinegar for a sharp-tasting complement and serve alongside creamy Brie.
Want to jam? The best trick is to put the berries into a pot, sprinkle with sugar and allow them to sit overnight before simmering them into a rich jam. I forgo adding pectin because the fruit thickens naturally when simmered down. (Pectin can make it seem rubbery.)
To freeze strawberries, put them onto a baking sheet and set in the freezer until they're good and hard, then slide them into a freezer bag. They'll keep for six months — right about the time you'll want to make jam as the winter winds blow. You can also toss frozen strawberries into the blender for a quick strawberry sorbet. Or use them instead of ice cubes in lemonade, iced tea and sparkling drinks.
Old-Fashioned Strawberry Shortcakes
Makes 9 biscuits to serve 6 to 12.
Note: The classic strawberry shortcake is built on a biscuit, one made with plenty of butter, which gives it a tender, crumbly texture. If you're serving 4 to 6, cut the quantity of strawberries and sugar in half, and adjust the amount of whipped cream. Or enjoy the biscuits for breakfast warmed, slathered with butter and loaded with fresh strawberry jam. From Beth Dooley.
• 8 c. strawberries, tops removed, and sliced
• 1 to 2 tbsp. honey, or more to taste
• 3 c. cake flour or all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp. salt
• 1 tbsp. baking powder
• 3 tbsp. sugar, divided
• 6 tbsp. cold butter
• 1 c. cold milk or buttermilk, or more as needed
• 1 c. heavy whipping cream
• 1 tsp. vanilla
Directions
In a medium bowl, toss the strawberries with the honey and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, baking powder and 2 tablespoons of sugar. Work the butter into the flour mixture using a fork, pastry blender or your fingers. (Or, put the flour mixture into a food processor and pulse in the butter.) The mixture should be as crumbly and even as breadcrumbs.
Drizzle the milk over the flour mixture and mix quickly until the dough comes together. If the mixture is too dry, add a little more milk, a tablespoon at a time.
Using your hands, lightly shape the dough into golf-ball-sized balls and place on the baking sheet, tamping them lightly down with your palm to make a disc about 1 inch thick. Lightly brush the biscuits with some of the cream. Bake until lightly browned, about 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool on a rack.
In a small bowl, whip the cream, vanilla and remaining 1 tablespoon of sugar until soft peaks form.
To assemble the shortcakes, split the biscuits in half, and evenly distribute the cream and then the strawberries over the shortcakes. Serve immediately.
Strawberry Ice Cream (without the churn)
Serves 6 to 8.
Note: This simple recipe doesn't require any cooking or special equipment. All you have to do is mash up the berries, whip the cream and lightly freeze. This recipe needs to be prepared in advance to allow for time in the freezer. From Beth Dooley.
• 2 c. strawberries, tops removed, plus more for garnish
• 1 (14-oz.) can sweetened condensed milk
• 2 tsp. vanilla
• Pinch salt
• 2 1/2 c. heavy cream
Directions
In a large bowl, use a fork to mash the berries. Add the condensed milk and mash again until well combined; the mixture should be smooth. Stir in the vanilla and salt. Set aside.
In a medium bowl, whip the cream until medium peaks form. Add about 1/4 of the whipped cream to the strawberry mixture and fold it into the berries to combine. Gently fold in the remaining whipped cream in 2 or 3 additions. Pour this into a 9- by 9-inch pan and spread into an even layer. Cover with plastic wrap, gently pressing the wrap into the surface and transfer to the freezer.
Freeze the mixture until firm, about 6 hours. Allow to soften at room temperature, about 10 minutes, before scooping. Serve garnished with additional fresh strawberries.
Strawberry Spinach Salad with Lemon-Basil Vinaigrette
Serves 4 to 6.
Note: Tangy and sweet, this makes a lovely side salad and light main dish served with rough, country bread. From Beth Dooley.
• 3 tbsp. olive oil
• 1/4 c. fresh lemon juice
• 1 tbsp. chopped basil, plus more for garnish
• 12 to 14 oz. fresh spinach
• 2 c. fresh strawberries, tops removed
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 4 ounces chèvre
Directions
In a large bowl, whisk together the oil, lemon juice and basil. Add the spinach and the strawberries and gently toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Turn out onto a serving platter or individual plates and top with dabs of the chèvre and garnish with additional chopped basil.
Beth Dooley is the author of "The Perennial Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.
