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Vallana Campi Raudii 2014

Most nebbiolo-based wines cost some serious bucks, so it’s delightful to find one that not only sells for $16 but delivers the goods. The Vallana Campi Raudii 2014 is lighter and brighter than most Barolos and Barbarescos, but this Italian red delivers nebbiolo’s signature earthiness and rusticity along with fresh fruit flavors. It’s from the underrecognized subregion of Alto Piemonte and is named for the Latin phrase for “red fields,” after the actual color of the soil rather than the famous battlefield nearby. The spicy notes make this a crowd-pleasing red for gatherings, while the robust side means that the classic foods of autumn — roast pork or fowl or squash — provide dandy pairings.

Available at Zipp’s, Solo Vino, Lake Wine & Spirits, France 44, McDonald’s, Kowalski’s Minneapolis and others.

Bill Ward