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Wintergreen claims to be the nation's only lodge devoted exclusively to dog mushing. That's probably true. What is undoubtedly true is that it's the only dog-sledding lodge with a nationally recognized (well, in France) French chef.

A vacationing Bernard Herrmann happened to be passing through Ely, Minn., on the day that co-owner Paul Schurke placed an ad in the Ely Echo. "I was just hoping to be lucky enough to find someone to cook," Schurke said. "And a master French chef answers the ad."

Who's it for: Participants during my two days at the lodge ranged from a 78-year-old woman to a 5-year-old boy. (Both rode in the sleds.) Anyone with moderate fitness can learn to drive the dogs.

Advisory: Reserve early; trips fill quickly. Budget packages put guests at nearby resorts. Paul and Susan Schurke sell and rent their well-made (and pricey) Wintergreen wear.

Perks: Top-grade grub. Not unusual to hear wolves howling, but highly unlikely that you'll see one.

Practical matters: Half-day trip (when available), $100. A four-night deluxe package in the lodge, $1,425. A budget three-night trip, $600. More info: 1-877-753-3386; www.dogsledding.com.