Q The gas pedal on my '98 Camry with 81,000 miles on it has started sticking when putting light pressure on it. It responds as I put on more pressure. What do you think the cause is, and what can I expect for suggested repairs when I tell the dealer about the problem? Of course, I'm hoping a little spray lubricant would solve the problem. My Camry has also started making "bumpy-thump" noises in the front end when going over potholes, especially in cold weather. The dealer says it's loose struts that should be replaced for $300-plus. Is this a pretty typical repair cost, and can something be tightened rather than replaced?
Spraying a quality aerosol to clean and lubricate the throttle linkage at the throttle body, and any exposed connections from the throttle pedal to the throttle body is never a bad idea and may reduce the symptoms significantly -- at least for a while. I suspect the dealer will inspect the throttle shaft and linkage on the throttle body, the entire throttle cable, the throttle pedal/pivot and the connection to the cable in the driver's compartment. The potential repairs include lubricating the components as I outlined above, replacing the throttle cable, and in a worst-case scenario replacing the entire throttle body due to wear on the shaft or shaft bushings. Try the lube first.
Regarding the "bumpy-thump" noises, I hear these from my teenager's bedroom on a regular basis as he cranks up the surround sound on his stereo! I don't enjoy these noises any more than you do.
Toyota has issued several service bulletins for your vehicle dealing with front-end noises over bumps, including TSBs SU001-00 and SU003-98. The first deals with a redesigned suspension support at the top of the strut tower, and the second involves replacing the "bump" rubber on the strut shaft with a new piece featuring six additional ribs. Ask your dealer whether either of these issues could be the source of the noise, rather than the struts themselves. The price you were quoted for replacing the struts seems quite reasonable. My Alldata database quotes roughly $140 per strut plus a bit over two hours of labor to install them. It is possible you could shop this common repair from an independent and save a few bucks, but the factory struts are engineered for your vehicle.
One final thought. If you're planning to keep your vehicle for several more years, you will likely need to replace the struts at some point. So if they're truly the issue right now, as Larry the Cable Guy would say, "get 'er done."
QI have a '94 Ford Escort wagon, and when I park on an incline my transmission leaks fluid. This doesn't happen when I park on level ground. How do I solve this problem?
Don't park on a hill, of course -- sorry, couldn't help it. The leak is likely from the transmission oil pan gasket. That's why when you park on level ground and the fluid level is below the pan gasket -- no leak. But if you park on a slope and the level climbs above the gasket on one end of the pan, it leaks. I don't think it's a front seal leak because this would leak while the vehicle is running, and stop when parked -- although it obviously might drip for a while.
Have a shop clean the lower part of the transmission, then park the vehicle on an incline or jack up one end and let it sit for a while. A reinspection should identify exactly where the leak is originating. If it's the pan gasket, it's a relatively minor repair.
Q We bought a '95 Grand Caravan with the 3.3-liter engine and four-speed automatic transmission. It has 99,000 miles on it, and seems in good condition. We replaced the spark plugs, checked the brakes, shocks, compression, belts, etc. Everything seems OK and it runs smoothly. The previous owner had the transmission serviced four years ago at roughly 60,000 miles. I asked three mechanics if I should have the transmission serviced with new fluid and a new filter. Mechanic No. 1 looked at the fluid, smelled it and said to drive it as is. No. 2 looked, smelled and recommended flush service. No. 3 looked, felt and smelled the fluid, and said drive it as is. What would be your recommendation? I'm confused, and I hate to spend money if it's not a rational decision. We only drive 3,000 miles per year, mostly in town. Sometimes we pull a 14-foot boat to Ontario for a fishing trip.
I'll agree with mechanic No. 2, regardless of what the transmission fluid looks, feels or smells like. Routine transmission service is preventive maintenance, not a repair. I'd like to think this should be done before there's a problem, not after a symptom develops.
Rational decision? Chrysler recommends transmission service every 30,000 miles under "severe" driving conditions. You live in Minnesota, don't you? You tow your boat, don't you? You qualify, even with your low annual mileage.
Be thankful the previous owner followed through on transmission maintenance. I see no reason for you not to continue to do so.