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Chicago's sidewalk cafes beckon in shirt sleeve and sundress weather, but wintertime means comfort food and steakhouses. Join the politicians at the newest, Chicago Cut Steakhouse (300 N. LaSalle; 1-312-329-1800; www.chicagocutsteakhouse.com), or try the legendary Gene & Georgetti's -- where the waiters are tough but the meat magnificent (500 N. Franklin St.; 1-312-527-3718; www.geneandgeorgetti.com).

On a leaner budget? Grab a cheeseburger at the original Billy Goat Tavern (430 N. Michigan Av.; 1-312-222-1525; www.billygoattavern.com).

For comfort fare choose a booth where you can feel the heat from the open kitchen at the acclaimed Sable Kitchen & Bar (505 N. State St.; 1-312-755-9704; www.sablechicago.com); then order the pork tenderloin schnitzel (with mashed potatoes and apple-bacon cider sauce) and don't skip dessert: warm rum raisin carrot cake.

Lunchtime, the Atwood Café's chicken pot pie with its sky-high puff of pastry atop is awe-inspiring (1 W. Washington St.; 1-312-368-1900; www.atwoodcafe.com).

For breakfast, the authentically retro Lou Mitchell's is a must (565 W. Jackson Blvd.; 1-312-939-3111; www.lou mitchellsrestaurant.com). A Chicago landmark since 1923, it's complete with waitresses of a certain age and free doughnut holes.

If you need some heat, you can sweat over dinner at the original Heaven on Seven (111 N. Wabash Av., seventh floor; 1-312-263-6443; www.heavenonseven.com), where hot sauces line the walls and the voodoo shrimp is superb.

CHECKING IN

There's no shortage of hotels in Chicago; but midwinter, special offers abound. In downtown Chicago's River North neighborhood, Hotel Palomar (505 N. State St.; 1-312-755-9703; www.hotelpalomar-chicago.com) has the requisite cool of an evolved boutique hotel -- including complimentary wine receptions every evening and in-room movie packages complete with candy.

For classical elegance, the Drake Hotel (140 East Walton Place; 1-312-787-2200; www.thedrakehotel.com) is hard to top -- especially with winter rates starting at $119. Hotel Burnham (1 W. Washington St.; 1-312-782-1111; www.burnhamhotel.com), designed by Daniel Burnham in 1895, is one of the city's great architectural jewels. Packages include a "Breakfast in Bed" for two (up to $50 value) plus late checkout.

Chicago's Hyatt Regency (151 E. Wacker Drive; 1-312-565-1234; www.chicago regency.hyatt.com) recently underwent a $90 million renovation and features hypoallergenic rooms. The Hyatt offers several packages, including one with shopping discounts.

MORE INFORMATION

Check out www.explore chicago.org.

DONNA TABBERT LONG