The great beer cultures of Europe and Great Britain have contributed core styles to the world's beer repertoire. The lagers of Germany are rightly acclaimed and copied. England's bitters, Ireland's stouts and Scotland's malty ales inspired the first generation of American craft brewers. The sublime Trappist ales and wild-fermented lambics and reds of Belgium have a long and distinguished history. Czech pilsners literally transformed the beer world forever, birthing every pale lager made.
But for at least the past decade, the United States has had the world's most vibrant beer scene. It's worth asking what long-lasting stylistic contributions American brewers have contributed to the world of beer. The answer is plenty. From time-tested old styles like cream ale and steam beer to a plethora of new IPAs, American beers are now being reproduced in those older beer capitals.
The birth of cream ales
Cream ale is a style born of immigration and competition. Before the mid-1800s, American brewing was centered on making English-style ales. The 1840s, though, saw a large influx of immigrants from Germany who brought lager brewing with them. As it had in Europe, the crisp, effervescent character of pale lagers quickly caught on, becoming the beer of choice wherever Germans settled.
Facing this new competition, the ale brewers responded by essentially creating an ale-fermented version of German pale lagers. They used the same basic grain bill of six-row barley lightened with corn or rice and sometimes simple sugars to ensure complete fermentation. They hopped at similar levels using the same varieties. Like the lagers — and unlike the English ales — cream ale sometimes underwent a period of cold conditioning, possibly with an added lager yeast.
The use of corn and rice — a substantial American contribution — was a matter of necessity in the 1800s. The six-row barley grown in the U.S. had a higher protein content than the two-row barley the Germans were using in Europe. The effects of high protein, including haze and increased body, were detrimental to brewing crisp pale lagers. Low-protein corn and rice allowed the brewers to make the beers their customers were accustomed to.
Most modern cream ales follow the mold of the originals. The style displays a delicate balance of malt and hops, with neither overpowering the other. The profile is similar to an American lager, but with fuller body and flavor.
Founded in 1860 by German immigrants, New Ulm's August Schell Brewing Co. was part of the rise of lager brewing that provided the impetus for the creation of cream ale. Now, they make one. Schell's Cream Ale is light and crushable. The aroma is full-on bready malt with just a whiff of citrus/floral hops in the background. The flavor is a beautiful balance of clearly articulated bread, spice and lemon peel, and just enough bitterness. This is a great anytime beer to have in the fridge year-round.
In St. Paul, Urban Growler Brewing Company's Cowbell Cream Ale follows a traditional mode. It's malt-forward and slightly sweet with subtle notes of corn. A tasty, toasted grain flavor comes mid-palate. Hop presence is low and spicy with just a faint trace of lemon citrus.
Minnesota Cream Ale from Lakes & Legends in Minneapolis takes a more contemporary approach. Citrusy lemon-lime hops take the lead, supported by a cushion of bready malt. Bitterness is low, but more than enough to balance any sweetness. It goes out with a refreshingly crisp, dry finish.
Look for other examples of the style appearing from time to time in area taprooms. Located in the old Hamm's brewery, St. Paul Brewing Co. currently lists Fond Memories Cream Ale on tap.
Taking it to the coast
Cream Ale wasn't the only American-original style born of German immigration. Steam beer — now known as California Common — arose in the San Francisco Bay Area as westward-moving lager brewers adjusted to warmer climates.
Lager brewing requires cold temperatures for proper fermentation and conditioning. In the Midwest and Northeast, brewers cut blocks of ice from rivers and lakes to refrigerate caves dug for this purpose. On the West Coast, there was no ice and winter temperatures remained too mild to make proper lagers. In San Francisco, brewers adapted by fermenting their lager yeast at the relatively cool, year-round, ambient temperatures.
The designation "steam" beer derives from the extremely high pressure that developed in serving kegs where the beer was re-fermented for carbonation. Barkeepers would loosen the bung slightly to release some of the pressure before serving — a process called "steaming."
Anchor Steam is the one example that is widely and regularly available in the Twin Cities. It is also a direct link to the style's development. Anchor Brewing Co. was founded in San Francisco in 1896. Following Prohibition, it was the only steam beer brewery remaining in the U.S. By 1965, Anchor was on the verge of closing until Fritz Maytag of the Maytag appliance family bought the brewery, modernized it and built it into what is arguably the first American craft brewery.
Anchor Steam has an overall rustic profile. It has some of the crispness of a lager, but with a slightly higher degree of fermentation-derived roundness and fruit. It's malt-forward with luscious caramel and nutty toasted grain. Bitterness is moderate, but with a sharp edge. The malty base is contrasted with a woody/minty hop flavor.
The latest IPA craze
Americans love hoppy IPAs, and styles have come and gone. The newest is the hazy, juicy New England IPA. It has gained a level of popularity that might give it more staying power than the black, red, brown and brut IPAs that came before it.
New England IPA has its origins in Vermont, where The Alchemist first brewed Heady Topper in 2003. Starting as an occasional release, Heady Topper quickly gained national cult status, drawing long lines on release days.
New England IPAs derive their saturated, succulent hop character from abundant use of fruity hop varieties late in the brewing process — typically after fermentation is complete. Hops used early in the process yield bitterness; those used late offer mostly flavor and aroma, thus the style's characteristic low bitterness and explosively juicy flavor and aromas.
There is no shortage of examples to try. Store coolers are full of them and nearly every taproom has at least one.
Vibe Hazy IPA from Insight Brewing in Minneapolis has an aroma that is all hops all the time. Coconut and tangerines hit your nose upon pouring. Hop flavors switch over to pineapple, passion fruit, and lemon juice and peel. Bitterness is low, but it's drier than many hazy IPAs, giving the impression that it is more bitter than it is. While some hazies can seem murky or squishy in their flavor, Vibe is bright, crisp and clear.
The aromas in Turncoat Juicy IPA from Shakopee's Badger Hill Brewing lean more to tropical and floral as mango and mandarin orange lead the way. The flavor follows suit, with mandarin orange slices as the dominant note that pops back in after swallowing and lingers into a long finish. Turncoat is medium-bodied with just enough bitterness to provide it with some structure.
Michael Agnew is a certified cicerone (beer-world version of sommelier) and owner of A Perfect Pint. He conducts private and corporate beer tasting events in the Twin Cities, and can be reached at michael@aperfectpint.net.
