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The term "drinking up" does not refer to some wacked, college-inspired method of getting a buzz. Rather, it is about finding a $15 bottle of wine that has the quality one would expect from a $30 bottle. Case in point: the 2009 Cellar Pinol Ludovicus, which boasts the complexity and oomph that a blend of garnacha (grenache), tempranillo, syrah and cabernet sauvignon should deliver. Layers of textures and flavors and a rollicking but elegant finish are its hallmarks. This robust Spanish red pairs beautifully with the roasted meats and vegetables that at this time of year start to fill our homes with enticing aromas. It's also a seriously swell hamburger wine.

BILL WARD