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Udaca Adro da Sé Encruzado Dao 2015

I am loath to use the word "exciting" to describe a wine, but that's the descriptor that pops into my head every time I think about the Udaca Adro da Sé Encruzado Dao 2015 ($19). This Portuguese white (100 percent encruzado) has a pleasant floral-and-fruit nose that barely portends the gobs of flavors about to hit the palate. Every citrus fruit imaginable is vying for attention with Mediterranean spices and vibrant mineral notes. It's as harmonious as wine gets from start to the wonderfully long, mouthwatering finish. Bold enough to stand up to salmon and elegant enough to play well with sea bass, this delicious white is also the ultimate holiday party treat.

Available at Thomas, Lake Wine and Spirit, and Sunfish.

Bill Ward