This week, the New York Times published a list of "the 50 most vibrant and delicious restaurants" in the country, a mix of established and new eateries that "reflect the rich mosaic of American dining."
Two Minneapolis newcomers made the roster: Owamni by the Sioux Chef and Sooki & Mimi.
"Sean Sherman and Dana Thompson, the partners behind the Twin Cities-based organization the Sioux Chef, are leading lights in the movement to revitalize Indigenous cuisine and decolonize American cooking," writes Brett Anderson. "So the menu at Owamni highlights ingredients from Native American producers. The lofty ambitions do not preclude pleasure. Mr. Sherman's cooking is as on-point as his activism."
The restaurant opened in July along the Mississippi River overlooking the sacred Owámniyomni, the Dakota name for St. Anthony Falls and the restaurant's namesake. It's located inside the Water Works Park Pavilion, 425 West River Pkwy., Mpls. Owamni is open for dinner Tues.-Wed. from 4-8:30 p.m. , and for lunch (11 a.m.-2 p.m.) and dinner (4-8:30 p.m.) Thur.-Sun.
Turning to chef Ann Kim ("one of the Midwest's most inspiring chef-restaurateurs") and the "genre-defying menu" at Sooki & Mimi, Anderson writes that the Uptown restaurant, "brought a sense of renewal to a neighborhood still scarred from the unrest following the killing of George Floyd." He also called out chef de cuisine Fiona Hunter, for "churning out dishes that seem to mirror the clean-lined interior design."
The much-anticipated Sooki & Mimi (1432 W. 31st St., Mpls.), named after Kim's grandmothers, opened in February — nearly a year later than expected. The dining room features a three-course tasting meal; the bar and patio has more casual fare. Nixtamal is a centerpiece at both places. Sooki & Mimi is open Sun., Wed., Thu. (5-10 p.m.), and Fri.-Sat. (4-11 p.m.).
Find the full New York Times list at nytimes.com/food.
