Meatball pizza from Ratio at the Misfits Collective
Detroit-style pizza is on fire, and there's a new addition to the Twin Cities lineup (which includes Bricksworth Beer Co. in Burnsville, the unmatchable Wrecktangle pizza and the always reliable regional chain Jet's). The newly opened Misfits Collective is four food concepts under one Apple Valley roof, and while each of the menus offer enough intriguing dishes to warrant several return visits, the deep-dish pizza is a solid place to start. Those can be found at Ratio, which inhabits the amoebic bar in the center of the whole sprawling complex. There are eight pizza choices that come in two sizes. I opted for the itty-bitty 6-inch square tin of the meatball pizza, topped with wedges of Italian meatballs, puddles of ricotta cheese and a swirl herbaceous pesto, all layered onto a sweet-tart tomato sauce and more cheese. The balance (or ratio, if you will) of this specific combination reminded me of one of my favorite local pies at Black Sheep. The crust, both softer and lighter than other Motor City-style pizzas I've tried, was all its own.
Ratio's other main offering is cocktails — a long list from beverage director/wizard Ralena Young that follows the classic 2 oz.-3/4 oz.-3/4oz. cocktail recipe but with some twists ("acid-adjusted" fruit juices, for one thing). There's beer and wine, too, but I'm firmly of the belief that pizza-and-cocktails is the way to go, especially when they're both so thoughtfully assembled. (Sharyn Jackson)
14889 Florence Trail, Apple Valley, 952-236-8115, themisfitscollective.co. Ratio's kitchen is open daily from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
OG Smash Burger at Surly Brewing Co.
The Surly beer hall is back. And for some prospective customers, it's complicated. At least if they followed the news last year of the collision of two big events in the same week: Surly hospitality employees announcing their intention to unionize, and owner Omar Ansari's announcement that the restaurant, pizzeria and events center were closing indefinitely, with about 150 workers losing their jobs. Ansari and his team said it was an unfortunate coincidence. (Surly hospitality staff did vote on the union, but the effort failed by one vote.) Still, it wasn't a good look, and it may take time for the craft brewery to shake off 2020.
Now for 2021. The beer hall began a phased reopening last month, serving only beer. As of July 7, food has joined the operation, overseen by beer hall general manager Aaron Johnson, a veteran of the Twin Cities restaurant scene, who is joined by two longtime members of the Surly kitchen, chef de cuisine Tom Beheba and sous chef Brian Crouch.
There are some new additions to the menu that I tasted at a media preview this week. A hot chicken sandwich that gets its crackle from potato chips — and ranch dressing! Falafel, fabulously crunchy. And four kinds of tacos made with heirloom corn tortillas from Nixta, which stand out for their inventive fillings, including my personal favorite, citrusy grilled mahi mahi with a whimsical drizzle of bright yellow of habañero aioli that evokes nacho cheese sauce from a pump in the best possible way.
But it would be hard not to stick to the Surly classics revived on the new menu, such as the Hog Frites (fries with smoked pork, pepper Jack fondue and giardiniera). The farro bowl with luscious, assertively smoked salmon. And, of course, this beauty of a smash burger, crispy with caramelization and just dripping with yellow American and "fancy sauce."
(Surly pizza fans can look forward to a reopening in August.)
As for the labor issues, know this: grappling with both an industrywide shortage of restaurant workers and its own demons, Surly has raised wages on both the hospitality side and the production side. Tipping is out, replaced by a service fee that goes into those wages for everyone in front and back of the house. And full-time workers get health benefits, dental and a 401(k).
"As a company, we certainly listened," Johnson said. "I think we're helping change what should have been done a long time ago in this business." (S.J.)
520 Malcolm Av. SE., Mpls., 763-999-4040, surlybrewing.com. Open 3 p.m.-9 p.m. Wed. and Thu., 3 p.m.-11 p.m. Fri., 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sat. and 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun.
U-pick blueberries at Rush River Produce
The blueberry abundance cannot be overstated.
"We haven't seen picking like this in 10 years, possibly longer," said co-owner John Cuddy. "We've got berries for the next two or three weeks in an insurmountable supply."
There are nearly 10,000 heavy-with-fruit bushes — Northblue, Patriot and Bluecrop are the dominant varieties — spread out in neat, vineyard-like rows across nine endlessly scenic acres. Visiting this flat-out gorgeous farm (just getting a glimpse at the flower gardens is worth a visit) has been a July ritual of mine for 20 years; Cuddy and his spouse Terry Cuddy have been welcoming berry enthusiasts since 1991. And "welcoming" is an understatement, because they're truly the nicest people.
Although I'm not the most dexterous blueberry picker, I managed to amass nearly seven pounds of ripe, juicy berries in no time flat. This year's price is $5.50 per pound. If pre-picked are available, they're going for $10 per pound.
The farm is about an hour's drive southeast of downtown St. Paul. Always call ahead to confirm hours and berry availability, and remember, cash or check only. And for a list of other blueberry (and raspberry) U-pick farms near the Twin Cities metro area, go here. (Rick Nelson)
W4098 200th Av., Maiden Rock, Wis., 715-594-3648, rushriverproduce.com. Open 8 a.m.-2 p.m. Thu.-Sun.
Soft serve ice cream at Seward Soft Serve
"Really really good things are here" reads the sign in the window. So true. For starters, the soft serve is noticeably luscious and full-bodied, and no wonder, because it's made with first-rate milk comes from Autumnwood Farm in Forest Lake. This soft serve is not the vacuous, air-pumped stuff often encountered elsewhere.
Two flavors are served daily — available in the twist format, of course — and there was a jackpot quality to what I encountered: the eternally crave-worthy combination of coffee and chocolate. (There's a vegan version, too, also sold in a pair of flavors). Cones and cups range from $2.50 to $7.
Another one of the shop's admirable traits is a case stocked with goodies prepared by a handful of local bakeries. On Thursday and Friday, the schedule falls to Laune Bread, which supplies croissants, cookies, a fudgy brick of a brownie to end all brownies, and other delights. Yes, that brownie was wisely being featured in a sundae.
Laune Bread is a subscription-based pickup and delivery service that does a bit of retail outreach via the Minneapolis farmers market circuit (Wednesday night at Nokomis Farmers Market, Saturday morning at Fulton Farmers Market), but pretty soon — as in, this fall — everyday availability will improve considerably. That's because bakers Chris MacLeod and Tiff Singh will be opening a bakery/cafe, at 3605 E. Lake St. in Minneapolis. Access to those dreamy brownies on a regular basis? Can't wait. (R.N.)
2211 E. Franklin Av., Mpls., 612-356-2195, sewardsoftserve.com. Open 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Tue.-Thu., 8 a.m.-9 p.m. Fri.-Sat., 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Sun.
Best pork bowl at Yeah Yeah Taco
In March, when Zettas co-owner Paige Alexander decided to stage a taco pop-up at her tiny — and seatless — Eat Street sandwich operation (seriously, is this the Twin Cities' smallest restaurant?), it became permanent.
"It's the pop-up that stayed," she said.
Good for us. Alexander is an enthusiastic consumer of tacos and burritos, and when she was readying a cocktail-centric operation in northeast Minneapolis — those plans were paused by the pandemic — she workshopped a menu that eventually gravitated toward those basic food groups.
There are a pair of pork options: "pork," which is a routine carnitas, and "best pork," a kind of carnitas-plus. For the latter, pork shoulder is nurtured in low heat for five to eight hours until it reaches maximum tenderness. It's shredded, tossed in a tangy glaze of mustard, apple cider vinegar, shagbark hickory syrup (a distant, much-less-sweet cousin to maple syrup) and bacon fat, and then crisped up on the stove, with that glaze adding a marvelous caramelized note to the proceedings.
"Best," indeed. Because my grain bowls obsession continues unabated, I went the rice bowl route ($13), and I was not disappointed. Along with plenty of that impressive glazed pork, there's crunchy romaine lettuce, pinto beans, cilantro, a spiced-up crema and rice seasoned with turmeric, garlic and butter, in a more-than-generous serving.
Meanwhile, Alexander said that plans for a second place remains in the works.
"It will definitely have a margarita," she said. "And seats. Seats would be great." (R.N.)
2424 Nicollet Av. S., Mpls., 763-310-2136, yeahyeahtaco.com. Open 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Tue.-Sat.
