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Sallier de la Tour Inzolia 2017

The winery name might sound French, but the Sallier de la Tour Inzolia 2017 ($15) is Italian — make that Sicilian — to its very core. A marvelous interplay of bracing mineral, super-fresh fruit and mouthwatering acidity delights the palate from start to finish. Oh, almost forgot the nose, which is as pure and precise as the sun that splashes these grapes. The vineyard, in western Sicily, got no rain from April until October last year, but an underground water table and hills that protect the estate from the fierce African winds served the grapes well. I doubt there’s a seafood dish that wouldn’t sing with this gem, and it’s the rare wine that makes fresh tomatoes even better.

Available at Sharrett’s, Haskell’s, Surdyk’s, South Lyndale and Thomas.

BILL WARD