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Guímaro Ribeira Sacra Mencia 2017

Rioja might be Spain's most renowned wine region, but Galicia is where the real action is. And while it's best known for crisp coastal albariños, the reds from the Ribeira Sacra (translation: "sacred banks") subregion warrant equal attention. The Guímaro Ribeira Sacra Mencia 2017 ($18) has Spain written all over it: juicy but sturdy red fruit, a dusty, mouthwatering midpalate and finish, and serious food-friendliness. Rising star Pedro Rodriguez farms organically and conveys the depth and concentration of 40-year-old mencia vines into the bottle. Besides such grows-together-goes-together dishes as paella and chorizo, this is the rare red that plays beautifully with most any spicy food.

Available at Henry & Son, Solo Vino, Humm's, Top Ten (Woodbury and St. Louis Park), North Loop, Lake Wine & Spirits and 1010 Washington.

Bill Ward