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Côte de Paradis Chenin Blanc + Viognier 2017

For many years, I have enjoyed the delicious Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc-Viognier and wondered why more vintners don't bend these two grapes. Well, in South Africa, a winery is doing it to great effect. The Côte de Paradis Chenin Blanc + Viognier 2017 ($14) is juicy and super-refreshing, with layers of fruits, spot-on balance and a persistent finish. This mix of old-vine chenin (79 percent) and viognier (21 percent) offers up the former's firm fruit and the latter's heady aromatics. The winery name, by the way, is a long-standing nickname for the city of Capetown. Shrimp prepared most any way, with cocktail sauce or as part of a braai (South African barbecue), and other fish and fowl, are lovely accompaniments.

Available at Dolce Vita, Wine Republic, Lunds & Byerly's and Cedar Lake Wine Co.

BILL WARD