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Castellargo 'Albus' Bianco Friuli Grave 2016

Trying to get at the Castellargo 'Albus' Bianco Friuli Grave 2016 ($17) is not fun, with the most difficult cork extraction I've encountered in a month of Sundays. Fortunately, this Italian wine is completely worth the herculean effort: stupendously delicious and refreshing, the kind of white that provides lift and energy on the most frigid winter days. It's borderline bone-dry, with fruit and mineral notes doing a tango on the palate all the way through the vivacious finish. This is the kind of white blend for which Friuili vintners have few if any peers. As such, it's beautifully suited for fruits of the sea (or river or lake) and for earthy or creamy pasta dishes.

Available at 1010 Washington, Lake Wine and Spirits, Wine Republic and Lake Aire in Duluth.

Bill Ward