My grandmother grew string beans, named for the tough seam running through the center. After an afternoon harvesting in her garden, we'd pluck out those threads and then she would boil them until they were "tamed."
Served "almandine" in a puddle of melted butter scattered with sliced, toasted almonds, these are best eaten with your fingers, one by one.
Today's varieties in our markets are bred to be stringless, and many cookbooks advise that they be cooked only until bright green and very crisp.
I disagree, because undercooked green beans taste grassy and slightly bitter. I like them best when boiled or steamed until tender beyond crisp, not limp and wimpy, but cooked long enough that the tiny bean within the bean pod opens up enough to reveal the bean's full taste.
At that point they're ready for just about any dish — a cold salad or quick stir-fry. They're so good this way that they can be simply served warm or at room temperature, drizzled with oil and sprinkled with coarse salt.
You'll find beans of all colors and sizes in our farmers markets this week: the familiar green variety (the 2.0 version of those old "string beans"); haricots verts, a slender French variety that cooks quickly, but lacks flavor; yellow (aka wax beans) that are milder than the green. Those purple, red, black and striped varieties are eye-catching but they can be tough and will turn green when they are cooked. The Chinese long beans are several inches bigger than green beans and have a sharper flavor and firmer texture, and require a longer cooking time.
At the market, look for plump, firm beans without black spots and wrinkles. At home, store them in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to three days and don't wash them until ready to cook. You'll want to snip off the tops and tails. A pound will feed two to four people.
Green beans tossed with toasted almonds and melted butter are a classic because toasted nuts seem to highlight the bean's naturally nutty taste. Toasted hazelnuts with their dark, roasty flavor and hazelnut oil are a terrific match. Served warm, at room temperature or chilled, beans are best eaten with fingers, one by one. Better than chips, less filling than cheese and crackers, they're fabulous on a hot summer evening, paired with a cold drink.
Beth Dooley is the author of "In Winter's Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.
