Kerri Westenberg
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New Orleans isn't the South; it's its own country. That's what my New Orleans-born husband told me before we had gone on our first date.

Since then, for nearly two decades now, I've been heading down for regular family visits, and I can confirm the sentiment. The Big Easy stands distinct in its dazzling, languorous, legendary ways.

Case in point: The city is celebrating its tricentennial this year, making it nearly 60 years older than the United States. And what other place would celebrate such a milestone with a restaging of "Tabasco: a burlesque opera," among other events?

The opera was last heard in 1894, and you have to wonder if that speaks to its qualities. Of course, the home of Bourbon Street hasn't held onto its 300-year-old swampy foothold for its relentless adherence to good taste. A constant embrace of good times has more to do with it.

There is no doubt that New Orleans will throw itself a great birthday party. If you want to celebrate without the hot sauce (the opera or the steamy scenes of Bourbon Street), let me give you some insider advice.

To understand New Orleans history — and for a free pass into one of the French Quarter's gracious buildings — head to the Historic New Orleans Collection. Its exhibition "New Orleans: the Founding Era," opening Feb. 27, will explore the city's first few decades. When you're done there, stroll the surrounding streets and gaze at the lacy iron balconies that nod to the French founding of the city.

Then take a streetcar to Uptown. There, faded Mardi Gras beads dangle from trees year-round, a reminder of the parades that launched them skyward. Streets, pocked with holes, are lined with prim cottages and grand mansions, sporting floor-to-ceiling windows and lamps lighted by gas.

Or plan nothing; just wander and watch. In this one-of-a-kind city, its rich history permeates the thick air.

Send your questions or tips to Travel Editor Kerri Westenberg at travel@startribune.com, and follow her on Twitter: @kerriwestenberg.