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Never mind what passes for breakfast during the weekdays, at least if you’re like those who share my DNA: a spoonful of yogurt, a bowlful of cereal, a slice of toast. Yes, indeed, we like spartan simplicity in the early hours of the day, and not only because it’s fast.

But when the weekend rolls around, we’re hungry with a different set of expectations, especially when the morning meal extends into that luxurious, sun-drenched late-brunch mode, where self-indulgence may involve a few extra calories.

24-hour “Omelet”
24-hour “Omelet”

Joe Keller

Often, the egg serves as queen for that day, so treat her as royalty. Think poached eggs atop crabmeat and bacon hash with a side of hollandaise sauce, or a plan-ahead cheesy puffed strata casserole.

Then again, we can dress up the menu with a tart of caramelized onion, feta and olives, or a fanciful egg roulade, its spinach swirl adding a lovely green spin.

Of course, let us not forget the egg’s breakfast partner, bacon, with or without a candied variation that dazzles with a little Sriracha heat.

Yes, the first meal of the day deserves the occasional wake-up call. But not one that’s too early.